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For many consumers, the name Prosecco is synonymous with celebration and conviviality; for others, it has become a generic term applied indiscriminately to any sparkling wine, regardless of origin or method of production. Among industry professionals, however, Prosecco is often burdened with less flattering associations—inexpensive, neutral, largely inexpressive bubbles. It lacks the aristocratic aura of Champagne, and it certainly does not enjoy the prestige of Franciacorta or the great crémants of France. To a large extent, this perception is not unfounded. Wine labeled Prosecco DOC may be produced across an exceptionally vast area spanning two Italian regions—Veneto and Friuli–Venezia Giulia—effectively erasing any coherent notion of terroir. Furthermore, much of this territory is strikingly flat and generously fertile, conditions that favor volume over distinction and result in wines of little character or individuality.

The ancestral home of Prosecco, however, tells a very different story. This is the territory of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, defined by Valdobbiadene at its western edge and Conegliano marking the eastern boundary, all within the province of Treviso. Across the Piave River lies Prosecco’s other DOCG, the Colli Asolani, named for the stunningly quaint hill town of Asolo. As beautiful as the Colli Asolani are, they lack—at least to my eye—the dramatic, rugged tension of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, where the land unfolds along a narrow ribbon of precipitous hills that rise abruptly from the plains. Poised midway between the still waters of the Venetian lagoon and the towering peaks of the Dolomites, this privileged position affords the vineyards constant ventilation and pronounced diurnal shifts, while offering the traveler an extraordinary range of excursions across varied landscapes. Treviso itself—an elegant and deeply historic city of canals, frescoed facades, and porticoes—lies just beyond the vineyards and is well worth a visit in its own right. The soaring Alpine summits and Tyrolean architecture of Cortina d’Ampezzo are little more than two hours’ drive from the placid Adriatic and the Venetian palazzi, where Gothic forms intertwine with Byzantine and Arab influences. How could I not take advantage of a trip to Valdobbiadene to extend the journey in one of two directions: toward Venice, for a plate of fritto misto enjoyed beside the Rialto Bridge, or north to Cortina, for casunziei at the foothills of the majestic Tofane? Few wine regions offer such an effortless passage between the maritime and the alpine, on the plate as much as in the landscape.

In 2019, the Prosecco Hills of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene rightfully gained UNESCO World Heritage status, recognizing a landscape of profound value that has been forged by generations of growers. In summer, these hills glow in dense shades of emerald; their lush vegetation and rounded domes feel almost tropical, an unexpected contrast to what is unmistakably a subalpine wine region. A permanent grassy mantle is kept between the rows of vines carpeting the terraced hillsides—locally known as ciglioni. On the steepest slopes, the grass, the gradients, and the irregular geometry of the plantings lend the vineyards a nearly primordial character, as if the vines were untamed, advancing on the hillsides of their own accord rather than being trained by human hands. These grassy mounds support biodiversity and prevent erosion, intensifying summer’s green, broken only by isolated hamlets, scattered rural buildings, and the occasional church steeple. The wines born of this terrain are equally distinctive and compelling, standing in sharp contrast to the insipid juice produced across much of the Prosecco DOC.

Three terms are worth knowing for anyone wishing to explore the range of wines produced under the DOCG: Rive, Cartizze, and Col Fondo. In the local dialect, Rive refers to the steep hillsides that characterize the area. The wines are made from the most suitable vineyards, where grapes are grown within a single municipality or hamlet. Harvesting is done exclusively by hand, and the vintage is indicated on the label. Wines labeled Cartizze are considered the pinnacle of quality and come from a tiny subzone nestled among the steepest hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, Santo Stefano, and Saccol, in the municipality of Valdobbiadene—a rare convergence of microclimate and ancient soils. Col Fondo refers to the traditional, bottle-fermented style of Prosecco, in which the yeasts that drive the second fermentation are left to settle at the bottom of the bottle, following an ancient method of sparkling wine production. Together, these expressions reveal a depth and nuance that challenge even the most entrenched assumptions about Prosecco, reminding the attentive drinker that, in its highest and most faithful forms, it is a wine of place, labor, and distinction.